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Rose Planting |
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Bare Root Roses: Plant bare
root roses as soon as possible after purchase. It is
advisable to soak the rose in water for up to an
hour to make sure it is fully moist. If you are not
ready to plant the rose in its final position it is
advisable to plant the rose in a temporary position
in the ground or in a pot with potting mix |
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Planting position and
preparation: Roses require 5 -6 hours of full
sun per day for best growth and flowering. Roses
can tolerate a range of different soils however it
must be well drained. In poorly draining soils mound
your beds 20cm above the surrounding ground
level. Poorer soils can be improved by mulching with
animal manure 3 months before planting. Prepared
mulches or potting mix can be applied on the soil
surface at planting time. In heavy clay soils
applying gypsum (also sold as clay breaker) will
improve soil structure and drainage. Dig a hole
approx 500 x 500 x 300mm deep. Plant your rose 5cm
below the graft so you can observe if rootstock
suckers below the graft. Water in well, if winter
rains do not occur then water every two weeks. Do
not place fertiliser or animal manure in the
hole at planting. Feed during early spring with a
well balanced slow release fertiliser; we recommend
Nitrophoska, or Hydrocomplex, using 25 grams per
rose. Feed again in January and April. Many soils
will also benefit from adding a good handful of
Dolomite in early Spring and late Summer. To feed
organically, use aged poultry manure, (such as
Dynamic Lifter) and add to that handful for handful
of grey wood ash or substitute a dessertspoon of
Sulphate of Potash. Most organic fertilisers have
more nitrogen than potash, and this imbalance
produces fewer flowers and softer growth than a feed
which has a higher concentration of potash. |
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Potted roses: can be
planted 12 months of the year as long as they have
an established root system. Water your rose in the
pot first, and then dig a hole twice the size of the
pot. Remove rose from the pot and place in the hole
with the top part of the root system approx 2.5cm
below ground level. Fill back up with soil, then
water in well. |
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Winter
Pruning:
Cut back your rose to approximately 30 to 40
centimetres high, you can use either a hedge-trimmer
or secateurs for this. Cut out any dead wood or
twiggy growth as well... Please note, this method is
used extensively in large rose gardens around the
world. Old fashioned roses that only flower once a
year are best if pruned after they flower as they
mainly flower on old wood, and not on new growth.
On old woody plants you can cut them
back to leave only 2 or 3 branches coming away from
the base by using a saw and leaving these branches
30 centimetres long, this will rejuvenate the plant
by encouraging new growth. |
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Late Spring Summer early autumn
Pruning: Cut
dead flowers off your bushes as though you are going
to put tm in a vase. This will encourage a denser
pant and more flowers, as you do not want the plants
to become so tall as to only have your flower above
your head height. Simple isn’t it.! Modern repeat
flowering roses will re-flower within 7-8 weeks.
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Standard Rose Pruning: Cut
them back hard all year, or they may grow the heads
to large (tall), and this will make the susceptible
to wind damage |
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Fuchsia: |
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These plants are much tougher than
most people think. In some parts of Europe they are
grown as hedges. In warm climates, if they are
protected from the extreme heat they will also grow
well. Careful selection of varieties to suit your
application is required though |
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Fuchsias can be grown
successfully in baskets, pots or in the ground, but
as stated earlier you must select the right types
for what you are growing them in. Fuchsias are
native to South and Central America, the Caribbean
and as far south as New Zealand. Fuchsias vary in
size from being a low ground covering plant such as
Fuchsia procumbens which has a small yellow flower
and is native to New Zealand through to a small tree
such as the species Fuchsia arborescens. |
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Plant fuchsias in a warm position
protected from heavy frosts, if you live in a frosty
area you can cover your plants that you have in the
ground in winter with a light covering of straw and
this will stop the frost from damaging the plants.
Some fuchsias can grow in full sun but most prefer a
semi shaded to shaded position protected from the
hot western sun. In a mixed garden bed, plant them
to the east of other shady shrubs or on the eastern
end of the house or eastern side of a solid fence.
They can be grown on the southern side of a house
but they must be able to receive light from blue
sky. In too much shade, plants become leggy and do
not flower well. They can be grown underneath shade
cloth or beneath deciduous trees to protect them
from full sun. When winter is over you can then
prune the fuchsias, but do not prune them at the
start of winter if you live in a frosty area.
Fuchsias can be lightly pruned throughout the
growing season to maintain a tidy shape |
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Fuchsias may be grown in pots, but if
you grow them in terracotta pots it is advisable to
either seal the pots with a sealant or line the pot
with a plastic bag. This method will stop the pot
from drawing the moisture out of the potting mix and
not only will your plants thrive but you will use
less water and help the environment. Plastic pots
and glazed pots use less water than terracotta. |
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Growing in baskets is another way
of having fuchsias for your enjoyment. In wire
baskets, either line the basket with a plastic
liner, a shopping bag will do the job but cut a few
small holes for drainage if using conventional
potting mix. Another alternative is to use a good
quality coir (coconut fibre) potting mix in wire
baskets, if this is used then there is no need to
line the basket with plastic as the coir mix holds
more moisture than pine bark based mixes. In plastic
baskets if coir based mixes are used it is advised
not to leave the saucers on the baskets and to water
less often than if using pine based mixes. It is
advisable not to grow plants directly under laser-
light as this can cause burning in hot weather. |
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Pruning plants growing both in
baskets and in the ground is done at the end of
frost periods. For basket fuchsias take the plant
out of the basket and prune the root mass back by
about 20% to 25%, then cut the top of the plant back
to the edge of the basket and to about 10cm high.
Then as the plant is growing you can tip prune to
encourage bushy growth, and in temperate climates
prune the top back by 30% after Christmas. Plants in
the ground are pruned back to 30 to 45cms and can be
root pruned by digging down a shovel length all
around the plant. |
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Fertilising of plants is advised
by feeding container grown plants twice a year with
a controlled release fertiliser, this being done at
the end of winter pruning and in late January.
Fuchsias are heavy feeders as they produce so many
flowers, and when using a controlled release
fertiliser it is advised to use 5 grams (a
teaspoonful) for every litre of potting mix the
container holds. Liquid fertilisers high in potash
are a good supplementary feed for the plant and are
equivalent to having a cup of coffee and morning
tea, nice to have but not a main meal. In the ground
fuchsias may be fed with a good quality general
fertiliser but make sure as with roses that it has
more potash than nitrogen. |
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If you have any
further questions send us an email
here |
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